Grudge Match
I was driving through the Nahe region of Germany when it suddenly occurred to me that the fields of mounded dirt covered with black plastic were actually fields of Spargel, in this case white. The Germans are fervent about their Spring Spargel… and so am I, as the perfect wine for Spargel is Riesling. In California, Spargel, or Asparagus as we know it, is disparaged as a poor match for wine. That is because most people have only tried it with a ripe and woody Chardonnay.
Abraxas with its aromatic blend of Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and a touch of Gewürztraminer is perfect, not only with Asparagus but, as I discovered, a plethora of other vegetables. Wine with vegetables is usually a grudge match with the wine being the loser, but in the case of Abraxas the match is an epic draw!
Until the Next Wine….
Maria
Pink Pleasure
RSV’s delicately pressed Vin Gris is a sensually aromatic rosé with vivid notes of white wild strawberries…. It’s so crazy!! This beautiful rosé’s vibrant acidity makes it pleasing on the palate and a great match for food. Surprisingly, this delicate rosy-hued wine stands up to assertive spices like Merguez spice from Spain. Typically this spice is used to make classic Spanish Merguez lamb sausages, but I wanted to expand its horizons and so reached out to land, sea and air. All of these dishes sing with the wine. Stash a bottle of Vin Gris in your picnic basket alongside the crunchy Merguez fried chicken. It will heighten the pleasure of dining plein air. I think that’s what the Vin Gris is all about - PLEASURE.
Until the Next Wine….
Maria
EAT: Merguez Style Baby Back Ribs
EAT: Grilled Wild Shrimp with Merguez Spice
NOTE: You can happily use a purchased Merguez spice blend or make one of your own. The recipe follows. IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU USE A FLAKED KOSHER SALT SUCH AS DIAMOND CRYSTAL. If you use regular table salt the recipes will turn out too salty.
Umami
Pinot Noir is one of the few wine varieties that has Umami. The plum, dark cherry fruit has a perception of sweetness, and a fresh and savory note on the finish that is neither salty nor sour yet enlightens your taste buds. It possesses a series of contradictory characteristics that lack description in the English language. The French would say that it has that, “Je ne sais quoi” but I think it is closer to the Japanese Umami. To me it’s the indescribable flavor that gives great depth to a wine or food and with that, great pleasure.
Tea-smoked duck is an extra-sensory dish. Black tea, soy and sweet spices come together to create the same feeling of Umami that comes from the wine. The breasts can be sliced thinly and served simply with rice, sautéed greens and roasted Kobocha squash or stuffed into lettuce cups and topped with the glaze and chopped peanuts. The 2009 vintage is singing now. The smoking is easy, so don’t let it get in the way of sheer pleasure at the table.
Until the Next Wine….
Maria
Perfect Porcini / Perfect Pair
I rejoice as the first gap in the late fall rain brings the first Porcini to life. Like magic, they pop their tawny, bulbous heads above the sweet humus of the forest floor in the hills of Napa and all the way up the California Coast. The taste of a fresh Porcini is sweet, delicately earthy with a pure, meaty mushroom essence. These wonderful fungi soar in the company of custard and Parmesan, which makes these Strata a perfect flavor fit not only for the Porcini but the Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon. The slight herbal and cocoa notes of the wine, with emerging cedar and earth aromas, are brilliant with the Strata. I sigh with pleasure when I enjoy the two together. I hope you will too!
Until the next wine…
Maria
A Little Zip
There’s nothing like a thick, dry-aged steak with its rich, juicy, melt-in-your-mouth texture. However, too much richness can drag down your palate. A counter-balance for the richness is key to transform good into sublime.
RSV Cabernet Franc provides a nice balance to a rich cut of meat such as a 2-inch thick porterhouse. The wine’s beautiful core of dark berries and plum, brushed with cocoa and kissed with violets nicely counters its ripe, medium textured tannins and bright acidity, providing a lift to your palate after each bite of steak.
RSV’s not so secret steak sauce also provides a nice counter-balance to the richness of the meat for a fine trio at the table - a dash of steak sauce, a bite of meat and a sip of wine - delicious! Not into meat? Try this sauce to spark up grilled meaty mushrooms or even extra firm tofu.
Until the next wine…
Maria
Ethereal vs. Sticky
An ethereal, delicately sweet wine encourages creative pairing whereas a “sticky” sweet wine can be a dessert unto itself. Seldom do wines of this category do well with all but the simplest of dessert. In fact, many sweet “dessert” wines shine in the company of cheese rather than cakes, puffs or caramel because overly sweet desserts can send your palate over the falls. The Pinot Gris Late does no such thing. It is a subtle wine with ethereal sweetness, a beautiful companion to cheese or a cake such as a Caramelized Pear Skillet Spice Cake. The pears boost the seductive pear-spice scent while the whisper-sweet cake lightly supports the delicate sweetness of the wine. This is a partnership I love and crave with every new vintage.
Until the next wine…
Maria
What Goes Around Comes Around!
I used to make lasagna for just about every large dinner party I threw during my early years of entertaining. It took more than a little effort as I had to make the sauce, the pasta and then the filling from scratch. However, once everything was done and the lasagna assembled, I just had to pop it in the oven while I entertained my guests. A delicious dish was as simple as that!
I had moved away from lasagna until some restaurant friends from Nantucket came for a visit and turned me on to a white lasagna they made with our vineyard raised lamb and pasta sheets made from “00” flour. The result was a light, ethereal lasagna, filled with richly braised lamb and creamy béchamel. Pure heaven!
That lasagna lingered in my head for nigh over a year before I took action. When I tasted the rich yet restrained, dark plum and cherry fruit of the Merlot, it hit a nerve. Its beautiful structure with underpinnings of vibrant acidity, opened the door to re-create the lasagna using veal instead of lamb. I felt lamb might just be a tad overwhelming for this elegantly balanced wine and veal would hit the spot.
Roll up your sleeves and give yourself a little time to create this dish. Enlist the help of others and pour yourself a glass of Merlot.
Until the next wine…
Maria
A Paler Shade of Gris
RSV’s Pinot Gris is a wine made with a light touch. Some styles of Pinot Gris, when left on the skins during fermentation, can have bitterness from tannins and an oily texture. RSV chooses a lighter approach by whole cluster pressing the wine, where the absence of color and tannins from skin contact results in an ethereal quality. While RSV’s pale gold Pinot Gris has some weight and richness on the mid-palate, it remains clean and refreshing on the finish. The texture of the wine provides supple support to the bright pear and melon flavors, with an underlying hint of spice.
The textures and flavors of RSV’s Pinot Gris are a delightful match for shrimp tacos. The slight spice of chile with the sweetness of the shrimp and corn tortillas meet up nicely with the fruit and spice of the wine. Homemade tortillas are fun to make especially if you have a group that likes to cook! Have fun with the tacos and the Pinot Gris. I’ve also included a couple of mini-quesadilla recipes to start the party.
Until the next wine…
Maria
Pleasure Principle
POV is a youthfully aromatic yet restrained wine with a deep ruby color a few clicks less than opaque. Its flavor and color are clues that the balance of extraction from carefully ripened grapes has been achieved. Its texture is one that invites you to roll it around your mouth, just for the pleasure of it. In a word, POV is about pleasure - pure pleasure. When I taste the dark plum, cherry fruit backed with a touch of dried herb and olive, I think of juicy flavorful Albondigas, flecked with olives and kissed with sweet smoky pimenton. You can certainly choose a fancy cut of meat to eat with this wine, but to me it speaks of comfort, pure and simple. Albondigas are easy to make, can be made well in advance, and then frozen in their sauce. In fact, this makes them even better. Relax with POV, cook up a pot of Albondigas and dive deep into the pleasure principle.
Until the next wine…
Maria
By A Thread
Saffron is a deceptively potent ingredient for a myriad of recipes. Steeping a few fine threads in hot water, is all it takes to impart saffron’s exotic flavor and distinctive, yellow-orange sunburst of color to your favorite dishes. High quality saffron is decadent, expensive and should never be taken for granted. A pinch adds the perfect amount of seductive flavor to golden, crisp balls of Arancini.
Abraxas, full of its own seductive flavors and aromas, tastes delicious with these delightfully crunchy, yet creamy orbs of saffron Arancini. The terroir driven blend of Abraxas is the sum of beautifully crafted parts - full-bodied pear scented Pinot Gris, crisp, melon kissed Pinot Blanc, stone fruit Riesling, and a delicate, aromatic hint of rose and lychee from Gewürztraminer all come together for a wine that satisfies all the senses. Enjoy the two together, soon.
